A blow to India and Bangladesh’s “fish diplomacy”

A blow to India and Bangladesh's "fish diplomacy"

As Durga Puja, the largest festival in West Bengal, approaches in October, there are concerns about a potential shortage of hilsa, the beloved fish of the local population.

Bangladesh, the world’s largest producer of hilsa, has recently ramped up its efforts to prevent the transportation of fish to neighbouring India. This move strengthens the longstanding export ban.

According to Farida Akhter, an adviser to the Bangladesh Ministry of Fisheries and Livestock, the recent push aims to ensure that valuable fish remains readily available to Bangladeshi consumers. This renewed effort comes just a month after a new government assumed office in Dhaka.

Despite the ban, a significant amount of fish continues to be exported from Bangladesh to India. She firmly told the BBC that there would be no allowance for the hilsa to cross the border this time.

Hilsa, known as Bangladesh’s national fish, remains a delicacy that is within reach for affluent and middle-income individuals while unfortunately remaining out of reach for the less fortunate.

During the Durga Puja festival, the previous government would lift the ban. It was once referred to as an exceptional talent. “We believe that it is unnecessary to give a gift this time,” stated Ms Akhter, expressing concern that providing a gift would prevent their people from enjoying the fish, which is currently being exported to India in significant quantities.”

This stance represents a significant shift from the previous approach of deposed former prime minister Sheikh Hasina, who was known for her “hilsa diplomacy” with India. Under this diplomacy, she frequently permitted the transportation of hilsa fish consignments to India during the festival season.

Hasina has sent hilsa to West Bengal Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee multiple times. In 2017, she presented a generous gift of 30kg of hilsa to the former Indian president, Pranab Mukherjee, in an effort to resolve a longstanding water dispute.

On 5 August, Hasina was removed dramatically following weeks of student-led protests that quickly turned into violent nationwide unrest. Despite her initial plans for a short stay in India, her efforts to obtain asylum in the UK, US, and UAE have been unsuccessful thus far.

The individual’s ongoing presence in India has further complicated Delhi’s attempts to establish a solid relationship with the new interim government in Dhaka. India considers Bangladesh a crucial strategic partner and ally in ensuring border security, particularly in its northeastern states.

When questioned about the possibility of the new interim government extending a goodwill gesture to India by permitting the supply of hilsa, Ms Akhter responded by stating that they intend to demonstrate goodwill in various other ways. They have become close acquaintances of ours. However, we must avoid taking actions that would harm our citizens.

“The issue of goodwill is distinct from this.”

Bangladesh is known for being the top producer of hilsa, a species of fish closely related to the herring. This fish is found in abundance in the Bay of Bengal and thrives in rivers.

Fish make up approximately 12% of the country’s overall fish production and contribute around 1% to its GDP. Every year, fishermen reel in an astonishing 600,000 tonnes of fish, with the vast majority of this impressive catch sourced from the bountiful sea. In 2017, hilsa was officially recognized as a geographical indicator for the country.

According to senior fisheries official Nripendra Nath Biswas, the government has allowed the export of 3,000-5,000 tonnes of hilsa annually during Durga Puja, as The Daily Star newspaper reported.

“In light of the limited availability of fish in the country, the government has decided to ban hilsa exports for this year,” he stated.

According to reports from Bangladeshi media, hilsa prices in the local market have significantly increased despite the ban on exports.

A 1.5kg hilsa fish was approximately 1,800 taka ($15; £11.50), a 1.2kg fish was sold for 1,600 taka, and a one kg fish was priced at 1,500 taka. According to traders, the prices have increased by 150-200 taka compared to last year.

According to fishermen, the price increase is due to a decline in catches. “Over the last three months, a seasoned fisherman, Hossain Miah, attempted to set sail on five occasions. However, Mother Nature had other plans each time, forcing him to retreat back to shore due to the treacherous conditions at sea,” Miah revealed.

Bengalis on both sides of the border highly revere the Hilsa fish, and its limited availability is sure to disappoint many.

The fish is highly regarded for its versatility. It is commonly prepared in various ways. One popular method is steaming it with mustard paste, which adds a delightful flavour to its delicate taste. Another option is frying it with a light coating of spices, resulting in a satisfyingly crispy texture.

Renowned food historian and author Chitrita Banerji, a Bengali-American, is just one of the many writers who have admired fish.

“Its enduring role as an icon of Bengali food is attributed to many factors, including its captivating physical beauty. Bengali writers have often described it as the beloved of the waters or a regal fish,” she explained during an interview.

“With its tender flesh, despite its bony nature, and a smooth texture complemented by its exquisite flavour, this ingredient offers endless possibilities for culinary creations.”

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